The Journal of The Textile InstituteVolume 105, Issue 6, 2014 |
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Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere, alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres
- DOI:
- 10.1080/00405000.2013.828448
pages 597-608
Abstract
Softness
of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is
surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of
rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of
these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production
and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre
curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While
there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and
to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in
resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of
resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and
cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino
wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool,
dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from
alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the
softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from
newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having
lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources
of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on
the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora
was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower
resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and
fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The
implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer
raw materials are discussed.
